Shahnaz Husain is the undisputed doyenne of herbal care in India. The Shahnaz Husain Group is renowned in the international and domestic markets as the leader in the premium segment in ayurvedic beauty care. Interacting with Express Healthcare, Husain speaks on the growing interest in ayurveda globally and her plans to tie up with cancer centres for solutions to issues like side-effects of chemotherapy and set up spas in hospitals
You promoted ayurvedic beauty care globally at a time when the concept was non-existent. What is the relevance of such an alternative system of healing in the traditional healthcare sector, given the need for scientific evidence-based healing methods?
I adopted the concept of ayurvedic beauty care and cure because I wanted to find an alternative to chemical ingredients. Ayurveda offered safety from the effects of chemical ingredients. It is a fact that the human body responds well to natural ingredients, while it has an in-built resistance to chemical ones. Also, ayurvedic texts contain the details of a staggering number of plant products, minerals and other natural substances, along with their medicinal properties, methods of extraction, specific combinations of ingredients etc. It is true that ayurveda basically contains empirical knowledge, but today research is being conducted even in other countries to evaluate it in scientific terms. In fact, we have combined ayurveda with advanced scientific techniques most effectively.
Your expanding global network of franchise salons, spas, shops and beauty training institutes testifies to an increasing interest in ayurveda and the ‘back to nature’ trend in many countries. This has prompted study and scientific research to assess ayurveda in scientific terms. Has India’s herbal heritage been able to stand up to clinical scrutiny?
Yes, we carry out treatments with ayurvedic products. In fact, ayurveda is ideally suited to spa treatments. There is a great deal of interest in the traditional ayurvedic treatments of ‘Dhara’ and ‘Kerala Massage’. There is an increase in tourists who come for these treatments. In fact, ayurveda is still flourishing in India. We also carry out these traditional treatments. Our products have actually grown out of clinical treatments in our salons, based on massive client feedback. We have devised ayurvedic treatments and products for specific skin and hair problems and have been carrying them out with great success over the last four decades. In fact, we have become known for our therapeutic products and clinical treatments for skin and hair problems.
How are you involved in this effort to study and research ayurveda at par with mainstream remedies?
We have two R&D units and research & Development have always received high priority. To ensure the purity of raw material, a herb and flower farm was also set up near Delhi, in order to exercise quality control from the raw material stage. This is done through rigorous testing and research. The extraction of essential oils, infusions, decoctions, tinctures and other extracts is carried out by the Shahnaz Husain Group. Various methods of soil culture and cultivation are being followed, using superior natural composts and fertilisers, which contribute, not only towards the purity and quality of the raw material, but towards actually creating a superior product. From the herbs and flowers, various preparations are obtained for use in the formulations, like infusions, decoctions, distillates, essences, powders, tinctures and so on, in keeping with the ayurvedic system. These are made under strict supervision, using the latest technology. Stringent quality control tests are carried out for various dilutions. Thus, by exercising control at each stage, high quality is ensured. The products are also clinically tested. Some formulations have remained in R&D for several years.
You believe that ayurveda can be combined with modern scientific techniques and is the healing system of the future. Could you elaborate on this philosophy with examples in specific disease conditions?
Our experience has been in treating skin and hair problems like acne, hyperpigmentation, scars, blemishes, premature ageing, alopecia, hair loss, dandruff and related conditions, etc. Herbs are actually remarkably versatile. They can have a combination of effects, allowing the entire scope of the problem to be treated. Neem (margosa) is one such versatile product and every part of the neem tree is used for healing purposes. We have treated acne, seborrheic skin and scalp conditions, sensitive skin and blemishes with ingredients like neem, sandalwood, basil (tulsi), mint, turmeric, clove, eucalyptus, ashwagandha (winter cherry), manjishtha (Indian madder), khus (Vetiver), carrot seed, anantmul (Indian sarsaparilla) and many others, due to their healing properties for such conditions and also for eczema, psoriasis, etc. Neem leaf infusions are very effective for skin diseases and help to relieve itching, soothe rashes, create a germicidal environment and clear inflammatory conditions. Neem actually contains organic sulphur compounds, which have a powerful and versatile healing action. It is nature’s own antibiotic.
Hair loss problems, including alopecia and stress related hair loss, have been treated with clinical treatments, along with ayurvedic hair tonics, hair packs, rinses, etc., containing amla (Embelica officinalis) a popular ingredient for hair problems, including greying. The ancient physician Charaka referred to amla as a medicine that delays aging, because of its high Vitamin C content. It is said that the Vitamin C content of amla is so stable that it is resistant to heat. Trifala, a combination of three herbs, has also been used to restore health to the scalp and promoting hair growth to curing eye ailments and soothing inflammations. Trifala consists of amla, haritaki (Terminalis chebula) and vibhitika (Terminalis belerica). Bilva (Aegle marmalos) and brahmi (Indian Pennywort) have also been used in stress related hair loss and hair problems. Bilva helps to control Vata and cures hair problems and inflammatory conditions, while brahmi helps to control stress-related problems, as it has a calming effect on the nerves, apart from other beneficial properties.
Sandalwood is perhaps one of the most common ingredients that have been used in skin care, because of its versatility. It is said to have an effect on all the doshas, but mostly on Pitta. It has powerful germicidal and antiseptic properties, while the exotic perfume is said to have a relaxing effect on the nerves. It soothes the skin and beautifies it and is an ancient Indian cosmetic ingredient. Tulsi (holy basil) has so many medicinal uses that it has been traditionally venerated and worshipped. Modern research has revealed that it helps to purify the air, apart from its soothing and curative actions on the skin and scalp. Turmeric is a part of our traditional beauty aids and has been in use since the ancient times. It has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, apart from softening the skin and enhancing its beauty. Rose has also been one of the most common cosmetic ingredients. Oil of rose is said to have originated in India. Apart from helping to tone the capillaries, improve blood circulation and help skin texture, the fragrance of rose has a calming effect on the nerves too. It was used as an anti-depressant in ancient times, along with sandalwood, jasmine, orange flower and brahmi.
You believe that ayurveda can be integrated into the health care system in a scientific manner. Any specific plans and recommendations that you are working on?
Yes, ayurveda can be integrated into the healthcare system in a scientific manner. It is a holistic system, which also takes diet, exercise, lifestyle, massage, etc., into account. Ayurveda is not only for those who are ill, but also for those who wish to come closer to a perfect state of health. In ayurveda, disease is the result of imbalance in the system and the treatment seeks to achieve the ideal balance through medication, diet and lifestyle. We already formulate products that are used in our traditional ayurvedic treatments. We also formulate neem, haldi, Trifala and anti-diabetic karela capsules, herbal teas, herbal drinks, pain relieving oil, muscle relaxant oil, immunity enhancer, etc. We have formulated our chemoline products that help to alleviate skin and hair problems caused by chemotherapy and radiation. There is a growing global market for alternative medicine, like ayurveda. This also includes essential oils, which are used in the related field of aromatherapy. Considering our immense empirical knowledge of the healing power of plants and the scientific research in ayurveda, India can be a leader in the field.
Are you looking at tying up with established names in the healthcare space, like corporate hospital chains, pharma companies, etc to take this vision forward? What kind of partnerships are you looking at?
We plan to open treatment and de-stress centres along with spas in hospitals for people going through treatment can relax and rejuvenate themselves. We also plan to supply the chemoline products for skin and hair care to top cancer hospitals all over the world, that have been especially designed to help alleviate the side effects of chemotherapy and radiation. These products draw upon the soothing and healing properties of organic ingredients and are known for their beneficial effects on the skin and hair.
Recently, the UN accepted Prime Minister Modi’s suggestion and has declared June 21 as Yoga Day. Do you think we should also have ayurveda Day?
Actually, I am very happy that the Prime Minister has created the AAYUSH portfolio for promoting our traditional medicines and practices of ayurveda, yoga, unani, siddha and homeopathy. It is totally due to his efforts and foresight that the UN has passed a resolution to celebrate International Day of Yoga every year on June 21. I definitely feel we should also have Ayurveda Day. In fact, I have already requested the AAYUSH Minister for this and I hope he will give it some thought. Today, people around the world are looking at ayurveda with enlightened eyes. It is an ancient Indian system of herbal and holistic healing. In fact, ayurveda being a holistic system, also takes yoga into account. Ayurveda is most relevant to our times and helps to deal with ailments that are related to our modern lifestyle. It can also help to counteract environmental pollution, toxic build-up and mental stress. That is why it is still flourishing in India. I have seen the global demand for ayurveda and have been able to establish a global chain of ayurvedic salons and spas. It certainly has economic potential and relevance for India. I think having Ayurveda Day will further pave the way for global recognition of ayurveda, and also encourage research and development.
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